Question: We have noticed both yellow- and pink-flowered trees in Central Florida landscapes. What are the names and are they reliable landscape additions?
Answer: You and many other residents have spotted some real show stoppers. Both types of trees creating major displays of color are tabebuias. They are of different species but of the same genus. Of the two types, pink tabebuias seem to be the most hardy and flower for a longer period of time sometimes starting to open their booms as early as late December. Yellow tabebuias tend to flower later, opening blossoms in February. The yellow types seem to be a bit less hardy. Both tabebuias make excellent accent trees that can provide shade during the summer. Regretfully they are not deep-rooted trees and may be affected by severe storms and hurricanes. This should not keep them from being planted but set them away from homes and other structures that could be damaged if uprooted by winds.
Q: I swore I picked up some seed pods from under a yellow tabebuia several years ago. But the 20-foot-tall tree from those seeds blooms pink. A neighbor one-half block away has a huge pink-blooming tabebuia. Did they cross-pollinate?
Plant Doctor: Vine with orange flowers climbing over everything in my garden
A. More than likely the wind or an animal moved the seed from your neighbor's tree to under your tree. The seeds are very light and somewhat winged. Even a whole seed pod may have been carried to your tree. The pink and yellow tabebuias are of different species and cross-pollination would not likely occur. Perhaps it is just nice to have tabebuias of a different color for your yard.
Q. My pink tabebuia is not flowering. Is there any fertilizer to help it bloom and is it too late for blooms this year?
A. Good news -- your tree will flower but you cannot be sure just when. Maybe your pink tabebuia is taking a break this year or perhaps your tree is too young to flower. They do not get in a consistent blooming mode until five to seven years after planting in your yard. If you do not see blooms or buds by now it is unlikely the tree is going to flower this year. Fertilizer can help the tree grow and eventually mature enough to begin flowering. Apply a lawn fertilizer without weed killer under the spread of the tree once in March and late May following the turf instructions. This is only needed the first three years in your yard. Thereafter trees normally obtain needed nutrients from fertilizer applied to nearby turf and other landscape plantings.
Q. Our crape myrtle trees are about 10 feet tall. How much should be trimmed off the trees and when?
A. Save yourself some time and keep these crape myrtles attractive by skipping major pruning. A ten foot tall tree form should be very attractive with only a little pruning to remove the seed pod bearing ends of branches. They can be cut back to stem portions about a half inch in diameter if you wish. Also, at this time remove or thin out entangled limbs. If there are shoots from the base, commonly called suckers, these should be cut back to the trunk of crape myrtles. That is it. Simple and easy pruning. By the way, you really don't need to do any pruning and the crape myrtles won't mind.
Q. Most of the leaves on my landscape poinsettias had curled brown edges. Any idea why and when is the time to prune them back?
March in the Garden for Central Florida
A. Unsightly poinsettia leaves during the growing season and holidays normally indicate a water, nutrient or combination problem. Make sure the plants have adequate water which for in ground plants is once or twice a week. Keep a light mulch on the soil and feel down into the ground to make sure it is remaining moist. Also, apply a slow release fertilizer in March, May and early October. Select one with minor nutrients. Do check the soil acidity and adjust to a pH of around 6.5. Now is the time to give your poinsettias their first of the year pruning. Cut in ground plants back to between 18 and 24 inches off the ground. Then repeat pruning after each foot of new growth to remove about four inches from each new shoot. Continue this pruning routine until the middle of August.
Q. My heliconia choconiana didn't care for the cold weather much. A large section was damaged. Should I cut it all back to the ground?
A. Many plants have been damaged by the cold -- especially the tropical types like heliconia. Sometimes major portions of these plants are heavily damage and may not recover. But now is the time to try and revive your plants by removing all dead and declining portions. If needed or desired they can be pruned back to near the ground. Keep the ground moist and apply a slow-release fertilizer this month and again in May and early October.
Q. I have a young mango tree with a blackish film on the leaves. What's producing the coating and can it be removed?
A. Make this black blemish disappear with a horticultural oil spray following the fruit tree instructions on the label. What's coating the leaves is growth from a sooty mold fungus but it's not the real problem. Piercing sucking scale insects are likely causing the leaf and stem discoloration. These mango tree pests produce excreta that is food for the fungus. A horticultural oil spray should control the insects and over time encourage the fungus to slough off the mango tree portions. Do a good job of spraying the leaves and stems to obtain the best control. A second spray may be needed in a month if permitted by the product label.