Getting a manicure doesn't sound like a controversial proposition, but one nail procedure is making waves as a surprisingly contentious option at the salon.

Despite being offered for years by some manicurists, Russian manicures have recently been gaining steam on TikTok as a popular beauty treatment. Users praise the manicure for its no-soak cuticle removal technique, which they say gives them clean-looking, picture-perfect nails. "It's really giving hand model," user Alexus said of her post-manicured nails.

However, the procedure has also generated negative buzz on TikTok from dermatologists and others who say the focus on the cuticle comes with noteworthy safety risks. "It's easy to forget that cuticles actually have a functional purpose," board-certified dermatologist Courtney Rubin said in a video warning about Russian manicures.

While messages like those certainly raise a red flag, you might be curious about what other skin experts have to say about the beauty treatment -- including whether it's worth skipping due to safety concerns. Here's a look at the evidence.

To understand the controversy surrounding Russian manicures, it helps to know what the technique entails.

Originating in Eastern Europe, the Russian manicure uses a different method than you may be used to at many U.S. nail salons. One of the main features of the Russian manicure is that it bypasses the usual step of soaking nails in water to soften the cuticle, the layer of translucent skin at the base of the nail. Instead, manicurists skip straight to filing the cuticles while they are dry.

"This technique involves using an electric file to aggressively trim and clean the cuticles, creating a sleek, 'perfect' finish around the nail bed," Hannah Kopelman, DO, a dermatologist of DermOnDemand, told Health.

Russian manicures usually involve the complete removal of the cuticle. "This differs from traditional manicures, where cuticle skin is pushed back after soaking and trimmed with scissors or clippers," said Brendan Camp, MD, a dermatologist with MDCS Dermatology in New York City.

After cuticle removal, a nail technician typically polishes the nail bed and then applies another coat with your chosen polish. The entire process can take two to three hours.

With the cuticle and skin around the nail bed removed, nails have a larger "canvas" for polish, making them appear longer and more filled-out. TikTokers and celebrities rave that the procedure creates a flawless look and that they are "never going back" to a traditional manicure. Some also claim the technique lasts longer than other manicures, allowing for more time between salon visits.

While it's easy to see the appeal of a Russian manicure's sleek aesthetic, removing the cuticle has some dermatologists concerned about nail health. That's because the cuticle's main purpose is to form a barrier meant to protect your nails and the skin around them from the entry of potentially harmful bacteria.

"The American Academy of Dermatology recommends that cuticles be left alone," Camp pointed out. "They grow over the root of the nail to protect the nail; compromising the cuticle could set the nail up for injury or infection."

Some potential infections include onychomycosis, a fungal nail infection, or paronychia, which develops in the skin around the nail, Camp said. A 2022 case study, for example, highlighted a 20-year-old woman who had a Russian manicure and then developed paronychia. She visited the emergency room after experiencing pain, swelling, and pus coming from the area around her nail (she recovered after a course of antibiotics). Kopelman said she's also seen patients develop cellulitis after the procedure.

An infection that begins in the hands can also spread to the rest of the body. "While it's not common, there is a real risk of systemic infection," Kopelman said. "The Russian manicure's invasive approach can introduce bacteria or fungi into the bloodstream if the protective barrier of the cuticle is compromised."

However, infections aren't the only concern with a Russian manicure. The technique might harm your nails themselves. When cuticles are removed so close to the nail bed, Kopelman said, it compromises the structure and integrity of the nail, increasing brittleness and sensitivity. "I often see patients with nails that have become weaker or thinner after frequent Russian manicures," she said. "Moreover, repeated trauma to the cuticle area can lead to chronic inflammation or even scarring, which affects how the nail grows out in the long term."

Camp didn't suggest that everyone avoid a Russian manicure, but he did note that it's important to be aware of the risks. If you do opt for one, he encourages selecting a nail technician with plenty of experience.

Kopelman, on the other hand, doesn't recommend the procedure. "In my professional opinion, it's best to avoid the Russian manicure or approach it with extreme caution," she said.

Gentler alternatives like applying cuticle oils can improve the appearance of nails without compromising the skin barrier, Kopelman added. "I remind my patients that there are safe ways to keep nails looking beautiful while preserving the health and integrity of both the nails and the surrounding skin," she said.